Sunday, October 11, 2009

The September Issue ***


"September Issue" chronicles preparations leading up to the September 2007 issue of U.S. "Vogue," reportedly one of the largest issues of a magazine ever published. Looking back over the calamity of the past two years, it does have some interest as a cultural artifact. Would the business of high fashion ever seem so alluring again?

The camera is just sort of there, hanging around with no apparent opinion about the goings on as it follows editor in chief Anna Wintour and creative director Grace Coddington over eight months of planning, writing, and photographing. Both former models themselves (for the U.K. "Vogue"), these powerful women are studies in discipline.

The real-life model for Miranda Priestly in "The Devil Wears Prada," Wintour is even colder, more distant, and opinionated than Meryl Streep's character. And it's the opinions of Wintour that have made "Vogue" such a success. Coddington, it's clear, is the creative engine in this team, ultimately producing most of the spreads in the issue, but she does it without fireworks, and with the calculations that come from a long association with her boss.

The mechanics of the shoots, the edits, the disagreements that go into the magazine are laid out clearly, but don't expect much at all in the way of drama or personal stories. The camera seems as controlled as these two women, seldom venturing into private lives or delving deeper into a story. It's like a factory tour, with no real heat or emotion.

We detect a hint of disappointment when we see Wintour's daughter plunging into a legal career, not at all interested in following her mother down the runway. And there's a touch of rue when Wintour talks about her high-powered siblings' attitude toward her chosen profession. But mostly the documentary sticks to what it takes to make the sausage. It has its fascination, but if you want life and emotion, see "Coco Before Chanel" or rent "The Devil Wears Prada."

Rated PG-13. 90 minutes. R.J. Cutler - Director / Producer, Eliza Hindmarch - Producer, Sadia Shepard - Producer, Robert Richman - Cinematographer, Craig Richey - Composer, Azin Samari - Editor.

Principal subjects: Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington, Andre Leon Talley, Patrick Demarchelier, and Oscar De La Renta.

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